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You will generally not spend as much to put in a comparable tank-style model as you would to go tankless.
With the right electrical, venting and plumbing in place already, a replacement calls for little modification.
Should there be a spike in demand or even a utility interruption, the stored supply can see you through.
Any plumber worth his salt is used to working on them and the parts are easy to come by.
Deplete the supply and you are left waiting on the tank to recover.
Even with no hot water being drawn, the unit expends energy to hold the temperature.
In Taylor the hard water will build up a layer of mineral sediment in the tank. This makes the heater labor more and can be the source of rumbling or popping.
Not as compact as a wall-mounted tankless.
An aging, corroded tank can let loose a lot of water if it gives way, which is a worry if the heater is in a finished area or the attic.
Provided the system is sized right, there is no storage tank to empty.
The unit is not on duty to keep dozens of gallons warm.
The Department of Energy has figures showing tankless to be 24 to 34 percent more efficient than the conventional storage type in a home with daily hot water use of 41 gallons or under. The savings may not be as pronounced in a high-use home but they add up.
Being wall-mounted it is unobtrusive in a closet or garage.
If you have a gas tankless installed and maintained as it should be, ENERGY STAR says you can count on 20 years of service.
You are not going to have 50 gallons of water released from a corroding tank.
You might have to put in a new condensate drain or different venting, or upgrade the gas line and electrical service.
You have to size the unit for the fixtures and the temperature rise.
Without it a tankless heat exchanger will be restricted by scale. You will see the efficiency drop off, error codes appear and the flow diminish.
Electricity is needed for the controls and ignition on most of today’s gas units. Sometimes you have to run a new electrical line.
The distance to the fixture remains. In a large home with long runs of pipe a recirculation system is called for.
Frequent on-off use or poor sizing can result in a “cold-water sandwich”.
After a meter is replaced or there is a break in the main, homeowners in the area will tell you of sandy particles showing up. This can clog up the screens on appliances or showerheads time and again. Sometimes it is from your water heater. Sometimes it is just from the main line work the City of Taylor was doing. If it persists, we can help you diagnose it.
Some have found that even after they have descaled the tankless heater, deposits are still at the fixtures. That is because the exchanger is not the only place the material is. We can service the unit and its inlet screen, have a look at the strainers and isolation valves and determine if a whole-home softener is in order to solve recurring scale issues.
We often see homes where exhaust vents have not been properly terminated or an unsafe proximity between the fresh-air intake and combustion exhaust. Gas equipment has to be vented and installed right. Servicing or putting in a new gas water heater calls for us to check the venting, clearances per the manufacturer and what is required for combustion air. Should one detect a gas odor or visible damage to the vent, or have reason to think there is carbon monoxide present, the prudent course is to vacate the area and call for emergency aid as opposed to running the appliance any further.
According to utility data, the municipal supply in Taylor runs to about 167 mg/L (9.8 grains per gallon) of calcium carbonate, which the USGS would term “hard”. There is variation though, so a test at the property is called for prior to sizing any treatment equipment.
The EPA’s general advice is once a year but in Taylor where you might have heavy use or sediment accumulating fast, a six-month interval is better. Figure on every six to twelve months.
You will need to descale them from time to time to clear the heat exchanger of mineral deposits. Given the hard water in Taylor, every six to twelve months is typical, provided you follow the maker’s directions.